Klaus Peter works to make wines for drinking with his wife Julia and their family in a number of the historically great vineyards of the Rheinhessen. In the cellar, Klaus Peter is in charge and runs a tight, non-interventionist ship. If Riesling is the ultimate lens through which wine lovers can examine differences between specific vineyards, as is so often said, then Klaus Peter and his family are modern day Galileos (Galileii?), and their farming and wine-making present a clearer view of Riesling from specific sites than we have ever seen, to say nothing about their work with Spätburgunder.
The Keller family emigrated from Switzerland generations ago and has owned parts of the Dalsheimer Hubacker vineyard since 1789. The family history is as deep as the family’s interest in the history of local vineyards. Much of their current holdings come from extensive research into wine-making in the region hundreds of years ago. This has lead them to rediscover otherwise forgotten plots like the Absterde site, from which Klaus-Peter produces world class wine.
The Limestone cuvée of Riesling is a special one, indeed, a gift from nature. Keller rarely makes an off-dry Riesling and can only do so when the conditions are perfect. When balanced by incredible, juicy fruit and just 9% alcohol, we have the makings for the perfect summer/Sunday brunch wine. Limestone has a deep, intense nose of lime zest, pink grapefruit and jasmine. It is wonderfully concentrated with peach and apple flavors, followed by a long, stony finish.
"RR" comes from a tiny 0.33ha pocket of red soil surrounded by a sea of limestone. If anyone has established the nobility of German Riesling grown on limestone, it's Keller. The Kirchspiel RR can be considered the alter ego of Kirchspiel Grosses Gewächs.
Still, the limited production "RR" has carved out its own place among Riesling fanatics. It's become an under-the-radar cult Keller bottling. The RR shows a more brooding, darker mineral expression with wet stones and moist earth, even tobacco and clay.
Klaus-Peter nearly always lets the juice from this unique parcel ferment naturally - thus it nearly always has a little bit of residual sugar.
A solidly constructed Dry Riesling that sings soprano notes of pale grapefruit, apricot and and green apple. A fine introduction to the blessed mix of sunshine and rocks of the Rhienhessen. Well-focused and well-done. A nice house Riesling that can be enjoyed with fleshy white fish, glazed poultry and everyday cheeses.
Riesling "Von der Fels"
Based in the Rhinehessen, where the wines have more generosity and richness than in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer or even Nahe, the Kellers are able to produce some of Germany’s most complete dry wines. Von der Fels is one of the best examples of dry German Riesling. The grapes that go into Von der Fels come from the younger (20-25 year) old vines of Klaus-Peter’s Grosses Gewächs (great growth) parcels, which are the sites that produce the top dry wines of Germany.